The fade, decoded

A fade is hair that gets gradually shorter toward the neck and ears, blended so smoothly there's no visible line. That's it. Everything else is where it starts, how short it gets, and what sits on top.

Where it starts

• Low fade: starts just above the ears and follows the hairline. The most forgiving, and the easiest to grow out.
• Mid fade: starts around the temples. The everyday middle ground.
• High fade: starts near the top of the head, around the corners. Sharp, bold, and it shows the shape of your head.
• Drop fade: dips down behind the ear, following the curve of the skull.
• Burst fade: curves around the ear in a half-circle and leaves length at the back. Often paired with a mohawk or curls on top.
• Taper: only the sideburns and the neckline are faded. Everything else keeps its length. Quieter, and grows out cleanly.

How short it gets

Clipper guards are numbered by length. These are the common sizes; your barber's set may differ slightly.

• #0.5: about 1.5 mm (1/16 inch)
• #1: about 3 mm (1/8 inch)
• #2: about 6 mm (1/4 inch)
• #3: about 10 mm (3/8 inch)
• #4: about 13 mm (1/2 inch)

A skin fade (also called a bald fade) goes all the way down to the skin with a foil shaver or a razor. A fade that bottoms out at a #1 or #0.5 keeps a shadow of hair.

How to ask for it

Give your barber four things: where it starts (low, mid, high), how short it goes at the bottom (skin, or a guard number), what you want on top (length in inches or a photo), and the neckline (natural, rounded or squared off).

How long it lasts

Fades show growth fastest, because the shortest hair changes the most. Most people book every two to three weeks to keep the blend sharp; a taper can stretch to four. If you have a regular slot, keep it. Your barber's calendar will thank you.